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Using an S4 with NASTAR 2.01. . .

A admin 2Member
when using an S4 with NASTAR 2.01: 1. When I change from program 1 to program 3 on the timer I can only start the blue course if the red is already running. Do I have the polarity of the plugs on the blue course switched? 2. One dual course mode, I must first start the red course, then the blue. The racer on the blue course is
the only one placed in the "on course" portionof the screen. Then I must first trip the red photocell, and then the blue in order to place the blue racer into the "finished" portion of the screen. Again, is this because I have the polarity of the blue course reversed? 3. In single course mode, I must trip the red course wand, then the blue in order to put the racer "on course". But I can trip the blue photocell first to place the racer in the "finished" box.

The only other thought to consider is that I am testing the program indoors before on hill. Therefore, I'm using the banana plugs directly from the wand to the timer. In an "on hill" situation I have a 7-prong (I think its 7) that goes to the banana plugs in the timer.



Originally posted 30 Nov 2001 by Karl Schwerin surewin_160@yahoo.com
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A admin 2Member
Program 3 in the S4 treats all inputs equally. The only difference is the time split is identified by the channel it came from. It is totally up to the software to use those
splits properly. I would start by making sure that you have the channels that you think you have. Make sure that your printer is connected so that each time you "fake" an impulse it is recorded. The NASTAR software defaults to having the the S4 "A" connections for red course. The banana plug inputs are START channel 0, the photocell inputs are FINISH channel 1. Blue course defaults to "B" with the banana plug START channel 3 and the photocell FINISH channel 4. You can of course alter the channel assignments if you want to use the 4 banana plug inputs. They are all labeled with their channel id.

All of these topics have been recently posted under USSA/NASTAR SPlit Second software and ALGE timers.

In the event that none of these ideas seem to work, reset the timer to the "factory default settings" as listed in a forum posting and try again.


Originally posted 30 Nov 2001 by Fred Patton
A admin 2Member
Polarity does matter when you are installing the sensors on the hill. You should always install sensors in a logical manner so that you can id the last sensor installed as the problem if the S4 meter swings out of the green. Polarity does not matter if you are simulating a race with buttons or by touching banana plug wires together. The meter on the S4 should always stay in the green. It will deflect slightly when a pulse comes through. All sensors are "normally open" so that a meter that is pegged all the way to the grey indicates a dead short, a meter in the orange shows very high resistance (bad splices, water) and a meter in the green is normal.


Originally posted 30 Nov 2001 by Fred Patton

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