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I'm looking for advice on settings and looking to take better pictures.
I currently use a 2000+ with the capability of 1000 fps. When set at a high frame rate if a runner crosses the line at a jog/walk type speed the image produced is of an athlete spread out on the screen, which makes sense to me.
I've been told that this can be improved upon if different settings are used. My current settings are ...
Pixel Depth: 32k
Pixel Mode: Zoom 100%
Compression: On (Minimum 65)
Frame Rate: Usually 800-1000
Frame Height: 500

I'm asking this question because I'm going to upgrade my camera resolution so that I can better evaluate close finishes but don't want to have even worse pictures for athletes who trot across the finish.
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We regularly adjust our frame rates. For distance races and younger kids, a lesser rate may be in order. For faster kids, higher frame rates are better.

What happens is that the picture stretches at higher frame rates with slower objects. A bit over a year ago they added the ability to "readjust" the image to put it back in "horizontal" perspective when you got stretched images.

This is from the release notes for 8.20 Lynx Software:
"There is now aspect ratio control for FinishLynx images. This image toolbar control (a simple edit box) is off by default; you'll have to enable it in the Options Dialog. [It is just the box with 1000 in it on the selectible list.]

The primary way that you specify the aspect ratio is to indicate what the "effective" frame rate should be. By default, the current frame rate is displayed in this box to indicate no aspect ratio change. Entering a different frame rate (type the number and hit Enter) will cause the image aspect ratio to change. The change actually takes place in the vertical dimension so that you still see all of your frames at 100% zoom, but the aspect ratio will be as if you had captured at the entered frame rate.

An alternate way to specify the aspect ratio is to simply specify how much to zoom in the vertical dimension. You do this by appending a "%" to the number. So entering "200%" will make everything twice as tall (equivalent to halving the frame rate). You can also do both of the above things but instead alter the horizontal dimension instead of the vertical. Entering a number with "h" appended creates that effective frame rate by stretching (or compressing) horizontally instead of vertically. Entering a number with "H" appended means to zoom horizontally by that percentage.

For completeness, you can also append "v" or "V", which are the same as blank and "%", respectively."

If you want to see the difference, I can send you some example photos at higher resolution if you want to email me at don AT michianatiming -DOT- com.
I don't think you can go wrong with High Res. For 6 years I never had a color camera, just a B&W High Res. I jumped on Identilynx and it made a big difference in being able to figure out race finishes, but then I acquired a color camera, which is non-high res.

My wife prefers the color camera, but I still prefer the B&W. Its images are amazing, and I think it trains you to be more considerate of the light you have to work with.

In considering the "taking better finishlynx photos" that Lynx posted on Youtube, at this point I always run them at their full resolutions, because you can't imagine pixels that aren't there.

That sometimes creates an issue when a kid walks across... but I'd rather make sure that the winner of the race is accurately timed than the last place person is easily considered.

Anyways, it's a roundabout way of saying go High Res, it's a worthy upgrade in my humble opinion.
Hi Pat,

That is a great post. I often sell customers on the idea that if they have limited budget, a frontal camera (that is color) is a better investment than a color etherlynx camera for two thirds the cost. If price is no object ... well then ...

Black and white photos are usually crystal clear. We still have several black and white cameras and I don't mind using them at all. In addition to getting very good at lighting as you mention, you also learn to notice small nuances of uniforms and other clothing/hair that distinguishes athletes easily (we don't hip number lane races usually). It just makes you a sharper operator I think.

We don't always shoot full resolution. I do get why you do, but we often turn it down for lower level meets and for distance races. The imagined pixels are okay in those circumstances for younger athletes I think.

I think a remake of the how to take better pictures might be good. That is a pretty technical discussion.

Again great post! Good points!

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