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This is for a J4 and younger program, so points scoring is less important. They just need something very easy to use.
Here's what the club has:
  • ALGE GAZ4
  • TAG CP520
  • Vista laptop, 1 serial port


I'm more of an ALGE guy, and have been using Fiddleware for my intramural league, with the D-Line display fed off of the TIMY. The only computer connection is between the TIMY and the serial port.

Obviously this isn't a possibility with the CP520/GAZ4 combo, so I'm looking for a software package that can drive the GAZ4 (USB port) as well as communicate with the CP520 (serial port) in the Vista environment. I don't think Fiddleware supports USB/Serial converters, and I'm not sure if it will work under Vista.

I've built the cable for the GAZ4, and it tested good with the USB/Serial converter and the regular serial port using the GAZTest program. That part is squared away at least.

Anyone know of an easy to use program that supports both ALGE and Tag Heuer products and will work in a Vista environment? They'd rather not do an annual license thing if at all possible. They're cheap most of the time, then they go out and buy timing gear without asking for options. They had only heard of Tag, so that's what they bought. They already had the GAZ4, and thought it would be compatible.

I built them a Windows 98SE machne a few years back, so if nothing else is available I can always install another serial port and get them on Fiddleware (which would probably work well). They'll probably whine about not being able to use the fancy laptop, but I might be able to convince them there isn't any other way to do it.

I don't think they would be willing to buy an ALGE timer, although that's my suggestion. Sure is cheaper than a Tag Display.
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Hi, we've used Quatech serial cards for years, they've been very reliable. They also have ethernet connected serial port units, which are equally reliable (I'm more cautious of their wireless units, I've seen some dropouts).

That said, the USB-Serial convertors should work ok- in my experience you need to be careful of overlapping drivers if you have more than one Serial->USB on the same PC- I've seen brands detect to each others different brand drivers and play up as a result on Vista and XP. The GoldX brand was worst for this, Belkin has been stable. Probably from multiple brands using similar component suppliers.

Cheers,
+M
I didn't have a problem with the USB/serial converter when I tested the display with the GAZTest program, so the real issue in that regard is with Fiddleware. I haven't looked into the Quatech serial cards enough to see if they would present a similar issue with Fiddleware, and $100 is a little high for a "let's see what happens"- especially with the club's budget.

The real issue is that the majority of free software out there (that I've found) either support ALGE or TAG, but not both. I know, beggars can't be choosers.

Another problem is how they do start lists and how rigidly they adhere to them. Trying to get 6 year olds to the start on time seems to be an issue, especially on long days with multiple events. Fiddleware is nice because you can essentially plug racers in on the fly.
I am not as familiar with Fiddleware, but you can certainly spend $25 on a USB to serial adapter and plug that into the computer and it should work fine. The cp520 isn't listed on the version of fiddleware I have, but the ptb605 choice could work as the basic settings are the same. Also depending on what the software will let you do (fiddleware won't), you can run both a scoreboard and timer off the same serial port. All of the settings must be the same, in this case, you would need one of the Gaz4 Displays that is switchable from 2400/9600 baud. You run it in 9600 baud off the same serial port and everything else is the same. This would work with Split Second.

My recommendation would be to spring for a Split Second License as it would be the easiest way. You can put racers in on the fly, do live-timing, anything you need, including run off of one serial port, create custom reports, team results, duals, etc etc. Use the club software.

Good luck,
Jenna
I have a USB/Serial converer, but Fiddleware doesn't recognize it. Has to be a "hard" serial port from what I understand.

The main problems with the Split Second products (which I like and have used) is that they are expensive for the program ($200 a season) and are not intuitive for people that aren't familiar with race timing. The club is on an Air Force base, and the timing officials (parents) turn over every two years or so. They run 4 or 5 races a year, so the timers don't really get much practice before they move on. Easy, bulletproof programs are what I've found work best, which is why I use Fiddleware. Let's put it this way- until last year they were using Reliable Racing IIs timers and hand-recording times. A modern timing system is a quantum leap for them.
Fiddleware will recognize a serial port that is "made" using a USB to serial adapter. The only issue is if the adapter creates a COM port with a number higher than Fiddleware can recognize. Most clean installs of USB to serial adapters end up with COM 4-6 being assigned. Sometimes the install goes slightly wrong and you could get numbers like COM 9 or above which is a problem. Try it an see what happens.
Before you "try again" remove anything you can with the lower serial numbers as most USB-Serial adapters choose the next lowest serial number available. Additionally, if you plug most of the adapters into a different USB port, you will install the software again, on the next higher serial port number available, so always use the same port.

Funny comment about Split Second, I actually think it is intuitive...
Jenna
Hi, if this helps, there's a trick to make the COM port number on a device lower, you can also go into the Windows device manager (via the control panel->System or similar, depending on your version), select the USB-COM port, go to Port Settings, click on "Advanced" and select the COM port number you'd like it to be.

If there is one free, you can normally select the free port. If not, sometimes you can select a low port number and it'll use that after a reboot. Try for com 1, 2, 3 or 4 (5-9 can be reserved). It'll normally come up with the com number you want selected after reboot, as long as something else (like a modem) isn't already wanting that port. If you want to try this to secure a lower com port number, do it when you have a little time, and make sure you note original settings if you need to back out. It's worked for me when I've had to force a lower COM port number for software which only works on selected COM ports, but also took a few iterations to get it working.

+M
So far I've had no luck with USB serial ports or a serial card (software configured) and Fiddleware. Both are working fine with GAZTest, but as soon as I try to use Fiddleware they either crash the software or just aren't recognized. I'm going to try a a fresh download of the program and then I'll mess around with the COM port assignments. I don't see a conflict now, but maybe I'm just missing something.
Maybe it's too late... but,
you can try 1 of 2 things:
1st - TAG Heuer Software can drive ALGE displays and CP520. You can try before you buy.
2nd - you can change the com port number without any problem (just make sure that is not in use). If laptop as 1 physical port it should be port COM1 and you should have COM2 free (avoid COM3 as it will share resources, Interrupt, with COM1). Software should not see the diference (99% of the times Smile).
Hope this help.
quote:
Maybe it's too late... but,

Hi,
I just read these message.
I think I am too late now, but maybe you or somebody else can use is.
I wrote a application to convert TAG Data data to the format for the ALGE GAZ.
You can use these tool also do display the current time, to start a countdown or to simply stop manually.
The tool is free, it’s called GAZ4Tool and you can download it by
http://www.alge-timing.com/alge-d.htm

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