Smart Display is still supported!

Do you need a specific one, ours is about 15 years old, and how do you wire it up?

There are so many different versions of RRS "smart displays" around that it is impossible to tell how to solve your issue. Most of these displays are being discarded and replaced by current models. They are of no value as a trade in as the company that made the digits is no longer in business.

Trial and error is the only way to see if the display can work. There has to be a connection for two wires (signal and ground) from the old timer. Connect Pin 5 of a DB 9 to ground and Pin 3 to signal. Try it. If is doesn't work, reverse the connections and try again.

Upgrading to a more modern display would solve your problem instantly. PST has 10 different types of displays that are tested with all types of SST software.

www.phoenix-sports.com

So when I pulled down the display this year I noted the wiring.
Pin 1 Ground
Pin 2 Red Start
Pin 3 Blue Start
Pin 4 Red Finish
Pin 5 Blue Finish
Pin 8 DNF

Any one have any idea how I can wire that up to work with the split second software?

The pin out you mention sounds like that of a DB9 connector. As far as I know this is not the input for signal from a computer, only for running the display as a stand alone unit.

The smart display that I have, has this as well as a 1/4 phono data input jack (power inputs also). If you have the data input jack, then wire up a phono plug to a DB9 female to work with your serial port on your computer.

Pin 3 on DB9 to 1/4 phono TIP (signal)
Pin 5 on DB9 to 1/4 phono stalk (ground)

Again this connection is from your computer serial port to the DATA port (1/4 phono plug) on the smart display. There may also be changes required to the dip switch settings on the board. If you dont have a DATA input, you may be out of luck.

We do have DATA port, so that sounds like good news, any idea what dip switch settings need to be changed?

I may be able to look at our settings sometime soon but from what I recall (but not positive) it was the two outside switches to one position and all others to the oposite. Make your cable and give some switch settings a try to see if you get it.

That would be great if you had a chance, I'll make up the cable and give it a try.

so I made the cable and opened up the display, but I don't see any switchs. Where should they be?

On my display the dip switches are on the same board that the DB9 connector is attached to at the end of a ribbon cable. For SST the #4 switch is up and the rest are down. SST display setting for me is TAG 705 Alge output running at 9600 baud. Good luck.

So I have no DIP switches, do you know if yours was modified or came with them?

Mine has not been modified but came with the switches described. If you get no love with a data cable and trying every display/baud setting you may be out of luck. Get the alge board and you will not be dissapointed. I used an old gaz display circa 1992 for almost a year and even with its age it worked perfectly. Summer is a good time to ask PST about demos and used gear.

Our display was a RRS Smart Display, and we had no luck with it either. It still chugs along with the RRS IIs timer, but I have yet to find a program or current timer that supports it. I even considered gutting it and using a current Alge or Tag board with the numerical inputs, but that proved to be impractical.

I just ended up going with an Alge D-Line display, which I've been very happy with. Cheaper and much lighter than a Gaz, it's been reliable and visible in a wide variety of conditions.

Good luck with the Smart Display.