I'm looking for recomendations choosing a permanent timing cable and meeting any FIS requirements. It'll be underground in conduit and about a 1700' run. Right now I'm pricing out a 12 pair, 24 awg., shielded, duct filled direct burial wire. Some questions are...braided or solid wire, drain wire needed?

Thanks, hoping to hear what has worked well for others. After years of being a magnet to every cat driver we're looking forward to a dependable cable

Bill C.
Auburn Ski Club Training Center

I prefer stranded for cables connections that will see a lot of flexing, but if you use connection boxes that pretty much leave the cable stable, solid conductor should be fine and last for years with no problems. I've never had a problem with EMI on my hill, and I work in an area with a lot of stray signals floating around. However, if the cable is going to be close to things like transformers or electric motors (chairlifts) or runs with a lot of powerlines for snowmaking buried in close proximity, a drain wire might not be a bad idea if you can't attach a ground wire to the cable shield. Remember to only ground one end of the cable.

I use a 6 pair, 24AWG, shielded, duct-filled, and gopher-proof direct burial wire. The local ski areas lucked out and got a bunch of wire donated years ago when they put in the Alaska pipeline, and this is what we ended up with. I would have preferred more pairs, but who can argue with free? This year I found my cable had floated to the top (from 12"-16" down) and gotten mauled by the fall hill mowing. Repeated freeze/thaw cycles and the high ground water content in that area contributed to the movement over the course of 15 years. I dropped in a pole and box nearby and will be burying more cable to cover what I lost. Lesson learned? Order more cable than you immediately need. You never know what is going to happen.

I think the conduit might be overkill, but if you can swing it cost-wise, I say go for it.

Since 99% of the time I'm running single course races, I connect both wires of each pair together for reliability. That way I have 1 pair (actually 4 wires) for start A, 1 pair for start B, and a spare for communications or backup. All wires run to terminal blocks at the top and bottom, to save time if I need to make changes and to make troubleshooting easier. From there I run to Pomona banana plug connections at the start and in the timing shack, so I can cross-connect among pairs as needed. We used to use multipin connectors, but that was much less flexible and practical. I can't emphasize enough the need to leave "maintenance loops" at either end of the cable so when the exposed wire corrodes you will have spare wire to strip. Write down your wire assignments (i.e. Orange wire for start A, Orange/White for Start A return) in several places. I usually will tuck a laminated wire list in my connection boxes so I'm not freezing my fingers off trying to figure out wiring assignments when it's -10F and blowing. Since my start is not covered, I used weatherproof covers over the start boxes to keep the jacks clean of snow and ice.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Mike Hancock,

This information is still valid as far as we know.


Phil Baumbach of the Lake Placid Olympic Regional Development Authority (ORDA) has forwarded his list of prefered suppliers. We thank Phil for his
contribution.

Clifford of Vermont Route 107 PO Box 51 Bethel, VT 05032 800-451-4381

Cabling Systems Supply Inc PO box 291 Chester, NY 10918 800-423-2230

Anixter I deal with their Albany office 325 Washington Ave extension Albany, NY 12205 800-423-4249

We are installing a new race trail at Whiteface Mt. I am using 22 gauge, 25 pair, Direct Burial, Alum/Shield, jel filled core, telco cable. It comes in all the listed pairings you want. I recommend the jel filled for added water and freezing protection. It also comes with various shields and amounts of protection. Gopher proof
adds another layer of metal shielding if rodents or other sharp hazards abound. Depending on amounts there maybe a cut charge, ask about that. I am installing interduct for protection when the cable crosses trails. Interduct is conduit developed for fiber optic cables, it is strong light and rather easy to install, no gluing of
joints. Blank, bulk, TV cables should also be handled by these vendors. TV cable with installed connectors maybe a different story.